Timeless Elegance: Three Iconic Watches that pair Perfectly with Black Tie.

When it comes to black tie, details matter. The cut of the coat, the shine of your shoes, and - most often overlooked - what’s on your wrist. A proper formal watch should reflect restraint, taste, and timeless elegance. Some might claim the old adage that “One shouldn’t wear a watch with a tuxedo, ” which is hogwash. Operas start on time, and how else would one know when to close out his pre-show martini tab to ensure he arrives before the curtain rises?

While many collectors reach for slim dress watches, there’s a compelling case to be made for three icons that bring both sophistication and heritage to formalwear: the Patek Philippe 3919J, the Rolex Submariner 16610, and the two-tone Rolex Datejust 16233.  These three watches comprise my personal collection, and they suit me perfectly for all occasions.  

Patek Philippe, Reference 3919J

The Purist’s Choice

If black tie attire is about minimalism and refinement, few watches do it better than the Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J. Introduced in 1985 and produced through the late '90s, this 33mm yellow gold masterpiece embodies classic Geneva watchmaking from one of the world’s most revered watchmakers.  

Its signature "Clous de Paris" hobnail bezel, slender Roman numerals, and understated dial make it a natural partner for formalwear. Extraordinarily thin, the 3919J slips effortlessly under a cuff, whispering elegance rather than shouting for attention. This is the ultimate nod to tradition — a watch that understands that black tie isn’t about flash, it’s about form, taste, and subtlety. It is the perfect dress watch.

I wear mine most often on a dark brown alligator band, which I replace with a black alligator band for formal use.

Rolex Submariner, Reference 16610

Bond, James Bond

At first glance, pairing a stainless steel diving watch with a tuxedo might seem like sacrilege. The Rolex Submariner, however, is an icon - the opposite of the Patek, yet effortlessly cool. Steve McQueen, Robert Redford, Sirs Sean Connery and Roger Moore…the Submariner takes you from diving with sturgeon to dining on caviar. The early Submariner references are all icons in their own rights, with collectors coveting various features and commanding tremendous valuations.

The 16610, produced from the late 1980s to 2010, is arguably the most versatile Submariner reference ever made. Its slim case profile (by modern standards), aluminum bezel insert, and balanced proportions allow it to pass in formal settings without looking out of place. The 16610’s sapphire crystal and updated movement from previous models make it the first “modern” submariner in technical specifications, but its artistic profile is arguably the pinnacle of the model. More recent references have grown wider lugs and chunkier silhouettes, which really have removed the elegance of previous models.

The submariner is the only sports watch that gets a pass with black tie. It worked for James Bond in 1962 and it works just as well today.

Rolex Datejust, Reference 16233

The Rolex.

No watch embodies the Rolex brand more than the Rolex Datejust. Although it wasn’t the first “Rolex Oyster,” it was the first to really make the Rolex name ubiquitous with horological innovation. From its introduction in 1945 through today, it has graced the wrists of popes and kings, presidents and statesmen, countless doctors, lawyers, businessmen, professional athletes, and their children and grandchildren who have inherited this family heirloom.

Produced from the late '80s into the early 2000s, reference 16233 offers a 36mm case, fluted yellow gold bezel, and classic Jubilee bracelet — an icon of quiet luxury.  The proportions are perfect and, like the Submariner, has been replaced by larger, clunkier specimens. It doesn’t scream opulence; it suggests success. The 16233 was the watch a gentleman bought after his first deal and is the one he passes down to his son. It bridges the gap between formality and every day wearability. Whether you’re in a board room, on a golf course, or at a state dinner, there is a near 100% chance someone in your immediate vicinity is wearing one.

The archetype has a champagne dial, but I prefer the white dial with the smaller sans-serif roman numerals.

Final Thoughts

Formal attire demands respect for tradition — but it also rewards individual style. The Patek Philippe 3919J is for the purist. The Submariner 16610 is for the classic rule breaker, evoking masculinity and an active life. The Datejust 16233 offers timeless understatement and tradition.

Each of these watches has the pedigree, elegance, and versatility to look entirely at home with black tie — and, more importantly, they’ll look just as good long after the champagne is gone.